12 st Patterns on 24 st Punchcard Blanks

This question is popping up quite a bit lately so I thought I'd go ahead and share this on the blog. Click on the picture for a larger, legible version of the punchcard. When using a 24 stitch blank card for a bulky 12 stitch punchcard pattern, you skip the column between punched columns. This will work on the 12 stitch punchcard BULKY machines. The older Toyota 12 stitch 4.5mm standard gauge punchcard machines like the KS858, require punchcards made specifically for them. The spacing for the punches is different and the 12 stitch cards made for them are not interchangeable with 12 stitch cards for the bulky machines. If you are having trouble with 12 stitch blanks, hold a card up to a 24 stitch card and see if the holes line up. If they are off, then you have the wrong blanks for your machine, the right cards will line up with every other punch space on the 24 stitch card.

I will have both types of machines and figuring out which card will work with which machine could get tricky so I am only buying 4.5mm gauge 12 stitch blanks for my KS858 and will be using the 24 stitch blanks for my 12 stitch bulky. This should help me keep them straight :)

Easier still would be if I just had all 24 stitch punchcard machines, or better yet, electronic patterning machines in both pitches, but then, what would be the challenge with that LOL!!

Ladder Eyelet Join

Ok, here's a mini video showing a variation on the traditional eyelet join for connecting knitted panels. This "Ladder Eyelet" (http://www.dimitysdrygoods.com/ click on Techniques on the left hand menu and then click on Strip Tease Knitting) is accomplished with using inside stitches through the eyelets which gives it a laced up affect instead of pulling the edge stitches through the eyelets, which creates a more Braided looking join. This technique has shown up in several magazine articles and books by several different authors and they all appear to have their own copyrights. I'm just showing how it's done and I have not refered to any books or articles other than the above mentioned website and a discussion based on a photo from an ebay auction. I hope that's enough disclaimer to keep me out of trouble :) I'm not claiming anything other than I know how to do it.

I used stitches 3 and 4 from the edge in this video to pull through the eyelet but you can use stitches 2 and 3 or any other stitches further in. The further in you go, the larger overlap of loose edge you will have. I sure hope that makes sense :)

Back Stitch Bind Off/Seaming with Latch Tool

Poor quality but I think it shows enough so you get what I'm doing :)